Spectacular views of the city from a wall of windows. Black-and-white photos of starlets covering the walls. Televisions quietly playing a Dean Martin movie in full technicolored glory amid luscious red booths.
Jerry Longo’s Meatballs & Martinis seemed like a natural choice for date night Feb. 14.
All this, plus a $65, three-course, prix fixe menu seemed too good to be true. Unfortunately, it was.
The food was good if sometimes overly prepped, but it was the lackluster, dismissive service that had us wishing we had opted for somewhere else where we could feel the love.
Clearly, the staff was expecting a crowded house. And they were right.
We arrived at 7 p.m., right in the middle of the dinner rush. The dining room was full of lovers dressed in red, coupled with groups of high rollers who were, by invitation only, offered the three-course meal complimentary based on their play. I can only assume the latter is the reason the chefs decided to rush out the courses as one would expect at a catered wedding or fundraiser.
We were sat by a kind hostess. There really isn’t a bad table in the house. Anywhere you’re sat and any direction you’re facing, there is something captivating to look at.
We were excited to enjoy cocktails. It was Valentine’s Day and the word “martinis” is in the name of the establishment.
It was about 10 minutes before anyone came to our table. It was our server, who leaned on our table with both hands as his first words were something to effect of “You ready to order or what?”
No, “Happy Valentine’s Day.” No, “Can I start you off with a cocktail?” I didn’t know if I was being punked or I had inadvertently gone into a themed restaurant where the waiters were supposed to be mean.
Shocked, we asked for a drink menu.
Several minutes passed before we got our drinks and our entrees were on the table before our server checked to see if everything was alright. I sent my Amaretto Sour back as it was just a tepid glass of the liqueur, not shaken, no foam, and sans the Luxardo cherry, Jack Daniels and, I can confidently state, the “Sinatra blessing” the menu promised. Far from a blessing, Old Blue Eyes took one look at this abomination from above and quickly did a quick turn in his grave.
Although my date’s drink, The Dominic, was tasty, it was warmer than it should have been. Is there a problem with the ice supply chain?
I opted for the Longo Housemade Sangria, which was huge, sweet and peachy. The roasted fruit listed as an ingredient consisted of a few, very unroasted, blueberries and pears.
For the first course we opted for Shrimp Sinatra and the Tomato Mozzarella Salad. The food runner had it out to our table in what seemed to be less time than it takes to properly sauté shrimp. That, and the dryness around the edges leads me to believe these prawns were waiting for me in a warmer for awhile.
Great tasting dish though. Three shrimp on a piece of perfect toast with a thin, tasty, butter and white wine sauce.
We could also rest easy knowing how fresh the lettuce was in the salad. How? There’s a prep area in the front of the dining room that was boasting a 2x4 cardboard box labeled "LETTUCE" on the counter all night across from the chef garde manger, who was feverishly preparing this course a dozen at a time.
Our second courses were dropped of by another food runner who kindly took the time to slide our empty appetizer plates out of the way — not bus them mind you — until we called him back and asked him to do so.
The Spaghetti & Our Favorite Meatball did the job. A perfect portion of sauced pasta with a meatball as big as a planet on top. The Gnocchi Basil Pesto was a little sticky and acidic. But if my hunch of this not being made to order is true, this tracks. As lemon would have to be added to acidulate the delicate sauce. And if you are not toasting the pasta, the gluten gonna do what the gluten gonna do.
The real star of the show was the only dessert offering for this menu – Creamy Italian Cheesecake. One of the best cheesecakes I’ve had. It had a light texture with a decadent cookie crust bursting with gooey, yummy, caramelized amaretto complete with whipped cream and a chocolate heart truffle.
The only thing that would have made it better is if our server had asked if we wanted an expresso or a Sambuca with it before slapping down the bill. Sigh.
We left full, and with a smile. Although we remain perplexed at the lack of enthusiasm of the wait staff and the kitchen staff since the restaurant was not unreasonable full at the time of our reservation.
I kept seeing Bally’s Chef Carlos Pino pop out of the kitchen and look around the dining room and visit the aforementioned box of lettuce. So It didn’t seem like the cooks were in the weeds either.
I think in cases like this it’s important to remember that at prix fixe menu is to offer value, yes. But it’s also an opportunity to showcase what you do.
I can’t help but think that this was more like a get ‘em in, get ‘em out situation. Or to put it another way, “everyone to whom much was given, of him much will be required,” Luke 12:48.
I’ll just say this. If you’re getting your dinner comped at a casino, much was certainly given.
(Michelle Tomko is an entertainer and accomplished home chef with years of restaurant, catering, bartending, wine and cocktail experience.)
